These socks are made to accommodate my cankles and stubby feet, so they won't fit everyone! I think it's interesting to see how other people make their vanilla socks. How do you make yours?
Written for fingering weight yarn on a size 1 (2.25 mm) needle. I use the magic looping method.
Cast on 64 stitches using a long-tail cast-on. Divide stitches so there are 32 on each needle. Join to work in the round by knitting the tail and working yarn together for the first four stitches, then drop the tail. Work the cuff in 2x2 ribbing for 12 rounds. Work the leg in stockinette stitch for six inches. Note the number of rounds past the cuff so that you can match the second sock exactly.
From now on, needle 1 will contain the heel and sole stitches, and needle 2 will contain the instep stitches. To create the heel flap, work back and forth across needle 1 for a total of 32 rows.
Row 1: (Sl1, K1), repeat to end of needle 1.
Row 2: Sl1, purl to end of needle 2.
To turn the heel, I use the round aka French heel located here at Heels by Number.
Set up for the gusset decreases by knitting across the heel stitches. Pick up 16 stitches along the side of the heel flap. Knit across the instep stitches. Pick up 16 stitches along the other side of the heel flap. Knit halfway across the heel and place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
It's a little tricky to rearrange the stitches, but I knit the gusset with all the gusset and heel stitches on needle 1 and the instep stitches on needle 2. Needle 1 will be a little crowded until you get some of the stitches knit down. At this point, since you are in the middle of those heel stitches, your instep stitches will be resting on the cable, with half the gusset and needle stitches on one needle and the other half on the other needle.
Round 1: Knit to last 3 stitches before end of needle, K2tog, K1. Knit across instep stitches. K1, SSK, knit to marker.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Continue in this manner until you have 28 stitches on needle 1. This means that the foot now has a total of 60 stitches (rather than the 64 that were cast on). This makes the foot nice and snug.
At this point, I consider the instep needle to be needle 1 and the heel needle to be needle 2. Remove the marker, and work the foot until the sole measures 7.25 inches from the back of the heel to the needle. Note the number of rounds past the last gusset decrease so you can match the second sock.
The wedge toe I use is shaped to be rounder and less pointy than a traditional wedge toe. Each
round is either a decrease round or a regular knit round. The decrease round is generally worked as follows:
Needle 1: K1, SSK, knit across to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1.
Needle 2: Repeat.
Round 1: Decrease on needle 1 only. 30 stitches on needle 1, 28 stitches on needle 2.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: Decrease on needle 2 only. 28 stitches left on each needle.
Round 5: Knit.
Round 6: Knit.
Round 7: Decrease. 26 stitches left on each needle.
Round 8: Knit.
Round 9: Decrease. 24 stitches left on each needle.
Round 10: Knit.
Round 11: Decrease. 22 stitches left on each needle.
Round 12: Knit.
Round 13: Decrease. 20 stitches left on each needle.
Round 14: Decrease. 18 stitches left on each needle.
Round 15: Decrease. 16 stitches left on each needle.
Round 16: Decrease. 14 stitches left on each needle.
Round 17: Decrease. 12 stitches left on each needle.
Graft toe using kitchener stitch. Weave in ends.
Repeat for second sock!